1–7 June 1857

Health better, disgusting weather. Sdsha brings the wood with friihstuck% chops sugar with Thurm, knd rows in an anchored boat. It is Trinity Sunday new style. Wrote The Cossack. After dinner chanced to go for a walk. The landlord said it was three hours to Grindcnwald. We went, Sasha lagged behind. Rain. A small animal. “ Comrade : cochon werde , schlechtes wetter / ” Beggars. Discussion about being religious. Came to an inn and stripped completely. Pretty servant girls. The waiter had fought in Naples. The glaciers diminish for seven years and increase for seven years.

Went to the glacier with B6ren, sent him for my things, wrote a description of the journey, went to a second glacier. A boy Liiprer — and another, the twenty- fifth son of the old man. An English cannon. An awful bill. English people arrived. . . . Could not sleep till midnight, paced up and down my room and the corridor. Walked about the balcony. The glaciers and mountains clack by moonlight. Pinched the downstairs housemaid, and the upstairs one too. She ran in several times. I thought she was waiting. . . . All the people came running and looked angrily at me. Downstairs I hear that I roused the whole house. . . . They talked loudly for about half-an-hour.

Woke at four and went up the Scheidne. Sent Sasha in advance. Walked to Gamsberg — terrible ! Saw the sunset but was too tired to enjoy it. Had sun- stroke and it hurt my eyes. Returned at four, slept. Awoke sad and savage, to dine abominably. Money con- siderations spoil everything and I have little money left.

Left at seven. A stone-carter gave us a lift in his cart. A little cabaret — they charge terribly. More beautiful girls. From Spiez to Thun on foot. Heimaths - lose. Am travelling with a dog and children, cosy and merry. A sallow bootmaker with sickly family. Glieder. In Thun, dinner with eighteen clergymen. A pretty servant in the Pinten Wirtschaft. Reached Berne. Thought of writing to L. Karamzina, and that I must marry and live in a house of my own.

Left Berne at eight. Till Fribourg, flat country with fields of rye and woods. A thirty-year-old American who has been in Russia. Mormons in Utah : Joseph Smith their founder was lynched. Prices the same in all the inns. Hunting buffaloes and slaves. I feel inclined to continue my journey. The abolitionists and Beecher Stowe.* Arrived in Vevey. Asked him to come, he would not. Finished the journey on foot. Sad, bare ! Began to write, but did not finish, a letter to L. Karamzind.

Got up at eight, have a sore lip. In the morn- ing wrote notes of my voyage capitally. After dinner a little of The Cossack , bathed, walked to charming Basset, afterwards a little of The Demented. Fine !