9–15 August 1847

We proceeded from the Osborne Pier on board the yacht. Our two eldest children, my brother Charles, the Duke and Duchess of Norfolk, Lord Grey (Secretary of State), Lady Jocelyn, General Wemyss, Sir James Clark, and Miss Hildyard, accompanied us. We have with us the following steamers:—The “Black Eagle,” “Garland,” “Undine,” “Fairy,” and “Scourge” (war-steamers). The two equerries are on board the “Black Eagle.” We were soon under weigh, and as Osborne vanished from our sight, I thought of our poor children left behind.

I have not much to relate. Our voyage has not been what we intended, mais l’homme propose et Dieu dispose; for instead of being at Falmouth we are only at Dartmouth! We started at five o’clock, and soon after felt the vessel stop, and on inquiring, heard that the fog was so thick it was impossible to proceed. At last Captain Smithett was sent out in the “Garland” to report on the state of the weather; and he soon returned, saying that all was clear enough to proceed outside The Needles (we were in Alum Bay). So we started again, and, after breakfast, we came on deck, where I remained working and talking; feeling quite well; but towards one o’clock the ground swell had increased, and we decided to run into the harbour we now are in.

We started at four and reached the Scilly Islands at three in the afternoon; it had been very rough. The numerous little rocky islands, in the midst of which we are lying, are very curious. St. Mary’s, the principal island, has a little town, a church, and a small harbour. Exactly opposite, on the isle of Tresco, is Mr. Smith’s house; he has the lease of all the islands from the Duchy of Cornwall. Farther to the left is St. Agnes, with a lighthouse and innumerable rocks. Albert (who, as well as Charles, has not been unwell, while I suffered very much) went with Charles and Bertie to see one of the islands. The children recover from their sea-sickness directly. When Albert and the others returned, soon after five, we went with our ladies and gentlemen in the barge across the harbour,—where, blue as the sea was, it was still rather rough,—and landed at a little pier at St. Mary’s. The harbour, surmounted by the old fort of the Star Castle, reminded me of the harbour of St. Heliers. We got into a pony carriage belonging to Mr. Smith, with Charles and Lady Jocelyn, and drove through the place, which looks like a small fishing town, and then round the fortifications of the castle, where there is a very pretty walk overhanging the sea; the rock being covered with fern, and heath, and furze. The extensive view of the islands and rocks around is very beautiful. The town is built upon a very narrow strip of land, with a small bay on either side. We got out at the old castle, which bears the date of one of the Edwards. The view from the battlements is very fine. We returned the same way we went, a little before seven.

We started at five o’clock, and the yacht then began to roll and pitch dreadfully, and I felt again very unwell; but I came on deck at three in the afternoon, the sea then was like glass, and we were close to the Welsh coast. This harbour, Milford Haven, is magnificent; the largest we have; a fleet might lie here. We are anchored just off Milford. Pembroke in front, in the distance. The cliffs, which are reddish brown, are not very high. Albert and Charles went in the “Fairy” to Pembroke, and I sketched. Numbers of boats came out, with Welshwomen in their curious high-crowned men’s hats; and Bertie was much cheered, for the people seemed greatly pleased to see the “Prince of Wales.” Albert returned at a quarter to eight. A very pretty dairymaid, in complete Welsh costume, was brought on board for me to see. We found Milford illuminated when we went on deck, and bonfires burning everywhere.

Arrived here this afternoon at five. I will give an account of what has passed since leaving Dartmouth. Thursday evening, after dining with Charles, we went on deck, and found the whole town illuminated, and the effect of its curious high houses running down quite into the still sea, which reflected the illumination, was lovely,—the night being so fine and calm.

We started again at four o’clock, but this time had a beautiful day, with the sea smooth the whole way. About eleven we saw the mountainous coast of Caernarvonshire; the hills, which are in fact high mountains, are bold and finely shaped, and, Albert said, reminded him much of Ischia, with the beautiful deep blue sea and bright sky. Having arrived at the entrance of the Menai Straits, we all left the “Victoria and Albert,” and went on board the “Fairy.” The “Victoria and Albert” with the “Black Eagle” (the two equerries having joined us), the “Undine” and “Scourge,” proceeded round the Isle of Anglesea by Holyhead, and, in the “Fairy,” accompanied by the “Garland,” we went into the Straits. As we entered, the view of the fine mountains with their rich verdure—Snowdon rising splendidly in the midst—and of the fields and woods below, was really glorious. To the left the country is extremely flat. Then Caernarvon came in sight, with its grand old Castle so finely situated. We stopped for a few moments off here, but did not land. The mountains disappeared for a while, and then re-appeared more beautiful than ever. We passed close to Plas Newydd, where we had spent six weeks fifteen years ago. I felt as if I remembered it all very well; but admired the scenery even more than I had expected from my previous recollection. We passed the famous Swilly Rocks, and saw the works they are making for the tube for the railroad, and then went under the Menai Bridge and stopped immediately on the other side. There were crowds of loyal people in steamers and boats, playing “God save the Queen,” and cheering tremendously. Albert and Charles landed and walked over the bridge. When they returned we went on again, and stopped in a most beautiful spot, with almost Swiss scenery, opposite Penrhyn Castle, Colonel Douglas Pennant’s (which I saw in the late possessor’s time unfinished), and near Bangor, with its wooded banks, through which one can see the high-road to Beaumaris. The purple hills, with the verdure below, and the blue sea, were extremely picturesque. Albert and Charles went to see Penrhyn. As soon as they returned we dined below in the “Fairy,” and at eight we returned, with the children and all our people, to the “Victoria and Albert.” The evening was beautiful and the day very successful.