13–19 September 1847

Albert left at six this morning to go to Inverness and see the Caledonian Canal.

At two o’clock I left Ardverikie with the children, and reached Fort William at half-past six, where I had the happiness of finding Albert on board the yacht. All had gone off well; but the weather had been very bad. Albert said Dochfour beautiful; the house new and very elegant, with a fine garden, and Mr. and Lady Georgiana Baillie very pleasant people. Albert had to go to Inverness, and to stay for a ball that was held there; and he was everywhere extremely well received. This morning he saw the Falls of Foyers, which, he tells me, are very grand indeed; and of a great height; and he says that the Caledonian Canal is a most remarkable work.

At five o’clock we left Fort William. Rather a fine morning; but very squally, and the sea rough, even where we were. When we came on deck, we were close to the Isle of Jura, which has such a fine, bold outline. We went on to Loch Crinan, where we got into the barge: here it was very rough and pouring with rain, so unlike the beautiful evening when we were here a month ago. We landed at Crinan. Mr. Malcolm, whose castle is just opposite, received us there, and we entered the canal boat at ten. We proceeded more quickly than the last time; the people kept running along as before, and there was a piper at each lock. It rained almost the whole time. We reached Lochgilphead at twelve, in pouring rain, and embarked on board the “Black Eagle.” The yacht had again to go round the Mull of Cantire and meet us at Campbeltown. What a contrast to the weather we had when we came! We got under weigh, and proceeded by Kilbrannan Sound and Arran. We went on deck for a little while, but were driven below by the rain; later, however, it was possible to keep on deck. We reached Campbeltown, a small and not pretty place, at the foot of Cantire, at twenty minutes to five. About half an hour after we arrived the yacht came in, with the “Garland,” “Fairy,” and “Scourge,” and we immediately went on board. They had had a very bad passage, and Captain Crispin said he was very glad that we had not been on board the “Victoria and Albert.” This rather alarmed us for the next day’s voyage, the more so as the evening was squally and the sky very unpromising. There was a long consultation as to what was to be done, and at last it was decided that we should start at four in the morning, and if it were very rough, we should either run into Loch Ryan, the Mull of Galloway, the Bay of Ramsay, or into Douglas in the Isle of Man.

We set off at four o’clock, the yacht rolling considerably; but it was quite bearable; however, at seven they came to shut down the port-holes, expecting a heavy sea, and Lord Adolphus saw Albert, who had just got up, and said it would be very rough; upon which it was decided to put back a little way, and to go into Loch Ryan; we accordingly did so, and anchored there at half-past eight;—such a dreary rainy day—one could hardly recognize what was so fine when we were last in here. Both now, and the time before when we were in Loch Ryan, Lord Orkney very civilly sent us game and all sorts of things. At twelve o’clock Lord Adolphus read the short sea-service. We then talked over our voyage, and what could be done;—the day was very wretched,—pouring with rain and blowing hard. It was at last decided to start again at three, and get this evening to the Mull of Galloway, which would only take us three hours, though it would probably be rough. As soon as we were out of the loch the yacht began to pitch, and the sea was dreadfully rough. I was very ill. Albert, however, stood it perfectly, and the children very tolerably. Presently we came in sight of the Mull of Galloway, a great rock with a lighthouse on it;—and this was our last glimpse of dear Scotland.