30 July–5 August 1849

Arrived here after a quick but not very pleasant passage. The day was fine and bright, and the sea to all appearance very smooth; but there was a dreadful swell, which made one incapable of reading or doing anything. We passed the Land’s End at nine o’clock in the morning. When we went on deck after eight in the evening, we were close to the Cove of Cork, and could see many bonfires on the hill, and the rockets and lights that were sent off from the different steamers. The harbour is immense, though the land is not very high, and entering by twilight it had a very fine effect. Lady Jocelyn, Miss Dawson, Lord Fortescue (Lord Steward), Sir George Grey (Secretary of State for the Home Department), Miss Hildyard, Sir James Clark, and Mr. Birch are on board with us. The equerries, Colonel Phipps and Colonel Gordon, are on board the “Black Eagle.”

The day was grey and excessively “muggy,” which is the character of the Irish climate. The ships saluted at eight o’clock, and the “Ganges” (the flag-ship and a three-decker) and the “Hogue” (a three-decker cut down, with very heavy guns, and with a screw put into her), which are both very near us, made a great noise. The harbour is very extensive, and there are several islands in it, one of which is very large. Spike Island is immediately opposite us, and has a convict prison; near it another island with the depôt, &c. In a line with that is the town of Cove, picturesquely built up a hill. The two war-steamers have only just come in. The Admiral (Dixon) and the Captains of the vessels came on board. Later, Lord Bandon (Lord-Lieutenant of the county), Lord Thomond, General Turner, Commander of the Forces at Cork, presented their respects, and Albert went on shore, and I occupied myself in writing and sketching. Albert returned before our luncheon, and had been walking about and visiting some of the cabins. We left the yacht at two with the ladies and gentlemen, and went on board the “Fairy,” which was surrounded with rowing and sailing boats. We first went round the harbour, all the ships saluting, as well as numbers of steamers and yachts. We then went into Cove and lay alongside the landing-place, which was very prettily decorated; and covered with people; and yachts, ships and boats crowding all round. The two Members, Messrs. Roche and Power, as well as other gentlemen, including the Roman Catholic and Protestant clergymen, and then the members of the Yacht Club, presented addresses. After which, to give the people the satisfaction of calling the place Queenstown, in honour of its being the first spot on which I set foot upon Irish ground, I stepped on shore amidst the roar of cannon (for the artillery were placed so close as quite to shake the temporary room which we entered); and the enthusiastic shouts of the people. We immediately re-embarked and proceeded up the river Lee towards Cork. It is extremely pretty and richly wooded, and reminded me of the Tamar. The first feature of interest we passed was a little bathing-place, called Monkstown, and later Blackrock Castle, at which point we stopped to receive a salmon, and a very pretty address from the poor fishermen of Blackrock. As we approached the city we saw people streaming in, on foot, on horseback, and many in jaunting-cars. When we reached Cork the “Fairy” again lay alongside, and we received all the addresses: first, from the Mayor and Corporation (I knighted the Mayor immediately afterwards), then from the Protestant Bishop and clergy; from the Roman Catholic Bishop and clergy; from the Lord-Lieutenant of the county, the Sheriffs, and others. The two Judges, who were holding their courts, also came on board in their robes. After all this was over we landed, and walked some few paces on to where Lord Bandon’s carriage was ready to receive us. The ladies went with us, and Lord Bandon and the General rode on each side of the carriage. The Mayor preceded us, and many (Lord Listowel among the number,) followed on horseback or in carriages. The 12th Lancers escorted us, and the Pensioners and Infantry lined the streets. I cannot describe our route, but it will suffice to say that it took two hours; that we drove through the principal streets; twice through some of them; that they were densely crowded, decorated with flowers and triumphal arches; that the heat and dust were great; that we passed by the new College which is building—one of the four which are ordered by Act of Parliament; that our reception was most enthusiastic; and that everything went off to perfection, and was very well arranged. Cork is not at all like an English town, and looks rather foreign. The crowd is a noisy, excitable, but very good-humoured one, running and pushing about, and laughing, talking, and shrieking. The beauty of the women is very remarkable, and struck us much; such beautiful dark eyes and hair, and such fine teeth; almost every third woman was pretty, and some remarkably so. They wear no bonnets, and generally long blue cloaks; the men are very poorly, often raggedly dressed; and many wear blue coats and short breeches with blue stockings. We re-embarked at the same place and returned just as we came.

Safely arrived here: I now continue my account. For the first two hours and a half the sea, though rough, was not disagreeable. We entered Waterford Harbour yesterday at twenty minutes to four o’clock. The harbour is rocky on the right as one enters, and very flat to the left; as one proceeds the land rises on either side. We passed a little fort called Duncannon Fort, whence James II. embarked after the battle of the Boyne, and from which they had not saluted for fifty years. Further up, between two little villages, one on either side, each with its little chapel, picturesquely situated on the top of the rock or hill, we anchored. The little fishing place to our left is called Passage, and is famous for salmon; we had an excellent specimen for our dinner. Albert decided on going to Waterford, ten miles up the river, in the “Fairy,” with the boys, but as I felt giddy and tired, I preferred remaining quietly on board sketching. Albert returned after seven o’clock; he had not landed.