6–12 September 1869

Misty early, then beautiful and clear and very hot. Got up with a bad headache. At five minutes to eleven rode off with Beatrice, good Sharp going with us and having occasional " collie-shandies " with collies when we came near cottages (A. Thomson and Kennedy following). We rode out the same way we came back yesterday, and then up the same hill overlooking Loch Drunkie — which really is nearly dry — and on down the other side of the hill, as fast as we could go along a rough but very pretty road, which brought us, over perfumed pink heather interspersed with bracken, to a spot where you get a lovely glimpse of Loch Achray and Ben Venue. We then continued along a wood past a few miserable cottages, but as private as if I were riding at Balmoral, out into the high road just at the Brig of Turk, and stopped at what is called " Fergussoris Inn" but is in fact the very poorest sort of High- land cottage. Here lives Mrs. Fergusson, an immensely fat woman and a well-known character, who is quite rich and well dressed, but will not leave the place where she has lived all her life selling whisky. She was brought out and seemed delighted to see me, shaking hands with me and patting me. She walks with a crutch, and had to sit down. We only stopped a very few minutes, and then went home as fast as we came, and got back by one. But Brown and the other two men were as hot as the clay we went up the Right, and it was indeed very hot. Our ride must have been eight miles altogether. My head still aching. At three, after luncheon, we started just as yesterday, and drove the same way as last Friday up the Pass of Leny by Loch Lubnaig, Strathyre and the King's House : here, instead of turning to the left to Balquhidder, we went straight on for four miles, till we came to Loch Earn Head. It was a beautiful and very hot afternoon. We stopped at the inn, which is quite a small place commanding a beautiful view of Loch Earn, which was splendidly lit up, the loch deep blue and the hills all lilac and violet. Sir Malcolm and Lady Helen MacGregor with their two little children received us at the door and took us upstairs. They have got a very pretty little drawing-room (looking on to the loch), Avhich they have arranged nicely and comfortably. The two little girls are dear little things, Malvina four and Margaret two years old. Sir Malcolm wore the kilt. He is a captain in the Navy, and showed us some curi- osities brought home from New Zealand, also a bottle which is said to have belonged to Rob Roy, and was given to Lady Helen by an old man in the parish, and a silver quaich out of which Prince Charles Edward had drunk, and which had belonged to Sir Malcolm's great-great-grand- father. Lady Helen is the late Lord Antrim's only child. Both were most kind and gave us some tea, and at half-past five we left on our re- turn. There was a small friendly crowd collected at the door, who cheered both when we arrived and when we left. We changed horses here, or at least very near, in 1842 on our way back from Taymouth. They said I mentioned the circum- stance in my book.* We drove through the grounds of Edinchip, which belongs to Sir Mal- colm MacGregor (but was then let), on the way home, and came back the same road, reaching home by half-past seven. My headache, which had been very bad all day, got much better just before we got home.

Received a letter from Colonel Elphinstone, dated 22nd from Halifax, with excellent accounts of dear Arthur. The passage had been a very good one ; he had mixed with every one on board, and been a general favourite — three hundred emigrants on board. Walked, and rode a little, while the others walked. Tired and feeling ill. It turned wet and continued so all the evening. We, however, determined to go to Loch Katrine, having ordered the steamer, and boats to row to the Silver Strand. So off I went with the o-Jrls and Lady Churchill just as on the other days, but when we got there it was too wet to do anything ; so we only went on board the steamer, took our tea in the cabin below, and then drove back again by half-past seven.

A very bad night from a violent attack of neuralgia in my leg. I only got up after nine, and could hardly walk or stand, but was otherwise not ill. I took a little, but very little, breakfast, alone. I remained at home reading, writing, and resting on the sofa or in an arm-chair. I came down to luncheon, Brown helping me down and up, but took it alone with the children in the drawing-room. Rested afterwards, and at twenty minutes to four took a quiet but enjoyable drive with Jane Churchill. It was not very bright, nor the distance very clear, but there were occasional gleams of bright sunshine which lit up the fine scenery. We drove to Loch Mcntcith, just the same way as on Thursday, and were surprised to find how short the distance was. After passing the gate of Rednock Castle we turned to the left and drove a short way close along the lochside past the kirk and small village (composed of only two or three houses) of Port Menteith, getting a good view of Inchmahome on the way. We stopped to take our tea (which had been made before we went out, but was quite hot still) outside Rednock grounds, and then drove back again, but took another turn through Callander, and then along a road (above which a number of pretty villas are built, and where you have a very pretty view) which comes out at Kilmahog Turnpike. Then home by a quarter past seven. Found Sir William Jenner, whom we had sent for, arrived. I dined below (hobbling along a little better and downstairs without help) in the drawing-room with Louise and Jane Churchill.

I had a really very fair night, and on getting up found I could walk much better, for which I was most thankful. I went down to breakfast as usual. Received again letters from dear Arthur and Colonel Elphinstone with excellent and favourable accounts of the good his presence had already done. At half-past eleven drove with Louise and Beatrice up the Pass of Leny as far as the commencement of Loch Lubnaig, in- tending to sketch, but it was too late. We met first two large coaches covered with people on the narrowest part of the bridge going to Kilma- hog, and then endless droves of wild-looking, and for the most part extremely small, shaggy High- land cattle with their drovers and dogs — most wild and picturesque — going to Falkirk Tryst. They stop for nights on the road — we saw some droves grazing on the lower parts of the hills on our way to Loch Earn Head — and the drovers gfet shelter with friends in the cottages and villages about. Home at half-past one. Planted two (very small) trees in front of the house, as did Louise and Beatrice also. Luncheon as yesterday, only with the children. My leg very stiff, so that, with great regret, I had to give up going to Loch Katrine for the last time, which I had so much wished. However, I did drive with Beatrice as far as the Trossachs Inn and back, and got a glimpse of the beautiful Trossachs and Loch Achray, with Ben Venue rising gloriously above it. I even made a slight outline of it, and returned, quite pleased at this, by half-past seven, stopping to make and take our tea not far from home, I remaining in the carriage. Felt better altogether, and was able to come to the usual dinner, to which also Sir \V. Jenner came. Dear Beatrice sat with us during part of the dinner, as she had done almost every night. Brown (the only upper servant in attendance, as I brought no page), who waited at all my meals, and did all the outdoors attendance on me besides, with the greatest handiness, cheer- fulness, and alacrity, and the three very good footmen, Blake, Cannon, and Charlie Thomson (one of seven brothers, two of whom are. also in my service, and one a gillie at Balmoral), did all the waiting at dinner and luncheon. Good Sharp was always in the dining-room, but remained quietly lying down.

Raining early, which made me feel I had done right in giving up going by the Spital, as I had intended up to yesterday afternoon. Felt, how- ever, better, and could walk with much greater ease. At half-past eleven we left Invertrossachs, the recollection of the ten days at which — quiet and cozy — and of the beautiful country and scenery I saw in the neighbourhood, though the last two days were spoilt by stupid indisposition, will ever be a very pleasant one. The two girls and I drove in a Callander carriage, with Brown on the box, perched up alarmingly high, Jane Churchill and the two gentlemen having preceded us to the station at Callander. All our luggage, ponies and all, went with our train. We stopped outside Perth for luncheon for a few minutes — and Jane Churchill came in again at Aberdeen for our tea — to enable Brown to come and help us. When we reached Ballatcr, where we got into two carriages, it began to rain. Reached Balmoral at half-past six.