15–21 June 1857

Slept till five. Crossed Mont Cenis. The lake is transparent. At nine took the diligence. An amiable Turinian. Arrived at twelve ; at one o’clock found Bdtkin. He is ill, old, and it is hard for me to be with him, but I will manage it. Druzhfnin and Bdtkin have come, that is pleasant. Went to two theatres and a cafe. Street-singers. Apollo turning somersaults.

Overslept and missed Genoa. Visited two museums — weapons and statues — and to the Chamber of Deputies. We all dined well together. Went for a walk. ... To a concert to hear the sisters Ferni. The best Sardinian society. Had a pleasant chat with Druzhfnin and went to bed late. B6tkin feels a silent hatred for Druzhfnin.

Woke early, bathed, ran to the Athenaeum. Feel envious of this young, strong, free life. Went to a cM. One can live, and live well, everywhere. Went with Valdfmir Bdtkin to Chivasso. Reports of Brofeurn’s interpellation. In the diligence with Angelet, his friend, and $ fair-haired Italian — and rogue — a retired officer who respects a b — . A lady in whose presence one talks of ... . Dined in Loraie. Our friends treated us to coffee. Walked to St. Martin with fatigue. Terraced vineyards and fire- flies. Si Signore !

Did not sleep till midnight. Terribly agi- tated. Rain prevented our starting. . . . Wrote a couple of sheets of The Cossack. Read enchanting Goethe. The Leave-taking and the Meeting . Went to the Trinity. A valley something like Grindenwald — fine. B6tkin is a dear Russian fellow.

Left at six. Ascent to the chapel. Meeting with haftdsome singer. View of Aosta valley and the mountain range. Depression of spirits. Meeting with a godfather and a godmother. The scent of rye, larches, grass. . . . Brusson. The second ascent. Beggar asks for half - a - franc. A pine forest. Alone by a brook. Second view of Aosta valley. Chestnuts and nuts. A valley with vineyards. St. Vincent. A pretty tobacconist. The Cassino waters. Riding like gentlemen. On foot to Chambave. Ruins.

The diligence was full. Sunday, shops, the church. Christenings. In a cart to Aosta. Bathing. A hot country. Roman antiquities. Coachman in the restaurant, a rogue. Road to St. Remy. Stories of the election of deputies. An idiot in a Napoleonic hat. St. Remy. Ball in a stable : tra la la ! St. Bernard dogs. Guide with frills and also in my hat. Mist, cold — a Russian evening when it thaws in winter. Strangeness. Hugeness of the Hospice in the fog. Welcome monastically sugary. Hall with fireplace, women travellers, nuns. A splendid supper. Two English, two French, and two Russians. An eloquent monk.