22–28 June 1857

Got up at six and went into the hall. The English had already gone ; only women remained. A talkative monk was showing the dogs. We breakfasted, saw the church. Copies of poor pictures — looked at the dead as if they were sketches. Descended for two hours through the mist over the snow. Where the fog had lifted it was dark and cold. An hour in a charrette, then three hours on foot to Osieres. An unlucky day — bad weather ; missed B6tkin, made no acquaintance. In Osi&res the maid said that les Valai- siennes ont toutes du bois devant la tnaison. Drove to Martigny — a wonderful place ; on foot to Evionnaz. The valley is covered with something lilac. The Pissevache — the rye beaten down. The place resembles Interlaken. A dirty cook-shop with bugs. Dormitory for wayfarers. Tipsy workmen from the railway. A plump and merr> waitress.

Got up at 7. Coffee made of boot-clacking. The waitress began to cry because I complained of the coffee. Went by diligence as far as Villeneuve with a sociable, consumptive pricepteur and a rotund little man who was recruiting soldiers for Naples. Spoke of the usefulness of the Swiss in Naples. Was a long time in a boat and arrived tired out. We went by water to Chillon. Drank tea in Villeneuve. Pleasant, but incomplete with- out women. Returned late, went easily to sleep.

Got up at six. Bathed. Read The Demented to Botkin ; it is really poor. He liked The Cossack. Chatted, went to Vevey and gadded about there. At home chatted. Absolutely nothing, except the success with The Cossack.

Got up late, head aches badly. Went for a walk to Chatelard ; hot, slept again, went to Vevey and Blone\ Am better. Did nothing, received a practical letter from Annenkov.

Got up at nine, still unwell. Haemorrhoids. Must n.ot drink wine and must keep to a cooling regime all the time. Made cigarettes, had a pleasant chat with Druzhfnin. Wrote a little of The Lost One. Slept after dinner, went to Villeneuve and to the hotel Byron. A freckled beauty. I want a woman — terribly — a pretty one.